New Members, A Journey to Mictlán and a Michelin Taco Miss oh, and an awesome museum

Welcome to Untethered. We have some new members and I’m glad to have you following along as Kerry and I share some of the experiences we’re having while spending time away from Milwaukee and off other social media. For those who are new here, Kerry retired in July, and we decided to start this next chapter by living part of our retired life outside the U.S. in different parts of the world.

Of course, we’ll do our share of sightseeing along the way, but the main idea is to live as normal a life as possible while abroad, staying within our retirement budget and settling into each place at a slower pace. We’re calling it slow travel. It’s a chance to really experience the cultures, foods, neighborhoods, and people wherever we go—living, not just visiting.

Mexico City is our first test of that idea. We know the city from when I worked here years ago (you can scroll back in the blog and find those posts), and this time we’ve rented an Airbnb for a month. We’re staying in a residential neighborhood, Granada, cooking most meals at home—except for the occasional irresistible street tacos—and so far it’s working out well. We’re keeping up with things back in Milwaukee while settling into life here, one day at a time.

This week we went to a show — or maybe more of an immersive tour — called Journey to Mictlán. It walks you through the nine stages a soul must pass through before reaching eternal rest, according to Aztec tradition. It’s all part of the Day of the Dead celebration, complete with alebrijes, Catrinas, and the marigold-covered path that’s said to guide spirits back to the world of the living.

The exhibit was done across nine different rooms, each with massive screens showing scenes of the journey through the underworld. It was well put together, and I did enjoy it — just maybe not quite as much as I expected. Let’s just say it might have been a little over-produced. Still fascinating, though. Maybe with a few gummies it would’ve hit just right

We also came across this beautiful ofrenda, or altar, part of the Day of the Dead traditions here. It was filled with candles, marigolds, photos, and favorite foods of loved ones who’ve passed — all meant to welcome their spirits back for a brief visit. No matter how many times we’ve seen one, the colors and meaning behind it are always interesting .

Yesterday we ventured out to try a Michelin-starred taco stand — El Califa de León — which translates to “The Caliph of Lion” whatever that means. We took the subway, our go-to for getting around during the day, to a part of town we hadn’t visited before. The setup was: open grill, fresh tortillas being rolled out right in front of you, and a short menu centered around thin cuts of grilled beef and pork served simply on tortillas.

There’s a little shop next door that rents out tables for tips — I tipped the guy two bucks — and that’s where we ended up eating. We shared the space with a friendly family of five from D.C. who, as it turns out, are in the middle of moving to Mérida. Always fun to bump into people chasing a different chapter in life. Well, I guess it is the same chapter, the parents are retired and living in different parts of the world for three months at a time. The usual amount of time allowed for a tourist visa. 

As for the tacos? Good, but probably our least favorite so far. I found myself missing the street tacos — the kind with chopped-up meat, grease on the counter, and a salsa. Those are more authentic to me.

After lunch, we headed to the Museo del Chopo for an exhibit called ¡Que Viva el Rocanrol! — a celebration of Mexican rock music, featuring El Tri, one of Mexico’s most iconic rock bands. Formed in the late ’60s, they’re known for mixing blues and rock with lyrics about social issues, rebellion, and everyday Mexican life. The exhibit was packed with memorabilia, posters, instruments, and videos from their long career.

We also saw works by Rosa Elena Curruchich and Angélica Serech, two Guatemalan artists who combine traditional Mayan art with modern themes — colorful, powerful, and deeply rooted in identity.

And finally, Era un Árbol y se Convirtió en un Bosque (“It Was a Tree and Became a Forest”), an exhibit exploring the relationship between humans and nature through sculpture and film. It also described the history of the building. I watched the short film that went with it and really enjoyed it —  surprisingly funny. This museum, while not on the usual museum trail is one that should to be missed.  

This passage really explains what the museum is all about.

All in all, a week of culture, tacos, and a few unexpected turns — just the way we like it.