Art, History, Protests, and Packers

Friday started off with a full day of culture, food, and friends. We met our former colleague and good friend Diana for brunch at one of our favorite restaurants, El Cardenal. 

We arrived a little early and stumbled upon a small art museum nearby called the Museo del Estanquillo. The museum was founded by the writer and journalist Carlos Monsiváis, who donated his massive personal collection of art, photography, and memorabilia to the city. The exhibit we saw was stunning, our photos don’t quite do it justice. 

After our surprise museum visit, we headed to El Cardenal for brunch. It’s one of Mexico City’s most respected restaurant chains, known for its traditional Mexican dishes served in a refined, old-world setting. They make everything from scratch, fresh-baked bread, hand-whipped hot chocolate, and chilaquiles.

After brunch we walked to the Zócalo, Mexico City’s grand central square, to visit the Templo Mayor Museum and the Metropolitan Cathedral. Both are impressive in their own ways. The ruins of Templo Mayor are what remain of the great Aztec temple complex that once stood at the heart of Tenochtitlán. The cathedral was literally built on top of it by the Spanish to erase the Aztec past and assert colonial rule. Some things don't change, erasing history. The symbolism is hard to miss.

After saying goodbye to Diana, we wandered toward Tacuba Street but before that, while in the square,  Kerry got her shoes shined. 

Avenida 5th de Mayo

Oh yes, Did I mention the huge book fair that was hopping in the Zocalo? 

We continued to Plaza Manuel Tolsá to see an exhibit at the National Museum of Art called Saturno. The show explored the influence of myth and astrology, a blend of science, spirituality, and imagination. We were surprised by the beauty of the National Museum, until Fernando explain that it was the NATIONAL Museum after all.  

M.C. Escheresque staircase 

Outside, we came across the Ferias de Barrios, a sprawling street fair featuring food and crafts from neighborhoods across the city. We walked across the Alemeda and found a heavy metal rock band playing. I am kind of the opposite of the lead singer. I play the guitar. : ) 

Later that night, our friend Fernando joined us for drinks at a great little bar in the Alameda, followed by what may have been the best tacos of the trip at El Vilsito in his neighborhood, a mechanic shop by day and taco stand by night. It think this is the second time you are hearing about this Taco place.  We wrapped up with a strawberry and cream dessert from a local dulcería. 

Saturday was all about the Alebrije Parade, one of our favorite events. The parade features huge, hand-crafted, brightly colored creatures — part animal, part fantasy — marching down Avenida Reforma. 

We thought it was supposed to center around the Ángel de la Independencia, the iconic golden-winged monument that celebrates Mexico’s independence from Spain. But when we arrived, the street was full of protesters, a national demonstration that was intense and, honestly, a little unsettling. Meanwhile, back in the States, there was the “No Kings” protest — so both countries had something to shout about that day. 

What made it stranger was that, right beside the protest, there was a beautiful marigold market, full of flowers and smiles. Two completely opposite worlds sharing the same space.

We went a little further down the road and found our spot in the middle of the boulevard watching what we had come for, the Alebrije Parade. 

And a Hairless Dog!! Always seems to be a Hairless dog somewhere we travel!

We ended the day with dinner and a walk through the Zona Rosa, A long, fascinating, and slightly weird day — just how we like it.

Sunday? That was easy. We found a good spot for brunch, went home and watched football all afternoon. Some habits just don’t die — even in Mexico. Go Packers!

Tim Burton’s Labyrinth

We took the Metro and then the gondola up into Chapultepec to see the Tim Burton Exhibit – “El Laberinto”.  Unfortunately, we arrived at the gondola right when school was letting out, so we had about 20 minutes to wait — I had plenty of time to contemplate the upcoming “No Kings” protest happening across the country on October 18th. But I digress.

Once we got to the top, we were greeted by a massive sculpted mouth — Burton’s signature entrance — A similar surreal, slightly creepy gateway that we saw at his exhibit back in 2017 when we were living here. (You can look back in the blog for that post.) Walking through that giant grin felt like stepping right into his imagination. 

Inside, the labyrinth twists through a series of dark, dreamlike rooms filled with giant figures from Burton’s world — Edward Scissorhands, Jack Skellington, Beetlejuice, and more of his strange, beautiful creations. Each room had multiple doorways, so you had to choose your path — and depending on your choices, you could easily miss entire rooms and characters. The immersive part was the music, it was a little louder than you expected and kept you in the mood of the rooms. 

   

We went with the VIP pass, which turned out to be worth it. It wasn’t much more expensive, and it allowed us to go through the labyrinth a second time. With a little strategy (and some memory of which doors not to pick), we managed to see two or three more rooms we missed the first time around. Still not sure we saw everything. 

  

 

Stay safe out there tomorrow

 

 

 

After finishing our second loop, we stopped at the gift shop where we received two posters with our tickets — future artwork for the apartment. Then it was back down the gondola, onto the subway, and home again. 

Suitcase Woes, Street Murals, and Chapultepec

One of our suitcases had a wheel blowout this week — the rubber literally rotted off. We’ve been trying to find replacements, but no luck so far. The shop we contacted keeps saying, “Just a sec, we’re checking,” and a week later… still checking. For now, we’ll be dragging it along and calling it “character.”

We went to the Anthropology Museum this week, but not before stopping for a quick street taco lunch. Our server couldn’t have been more than eight years old — she took our order without writing a thing down, added the total in her head (mixing 10s and 5s like a pro), and even figured out the change faster than either of us could. 

Outside the rmuseum, we caught the Voladores de Papantla, a group of indigenous men who climb a tall pole, tie ropes to their waists, and spin gracefully toward the ground — part ceremony, part acrobatics, and always impressive. The museum itself was as fascinating as we remembered from our last visit, but we skipped photos this time since I’ve already posted plenty from before.

We made our way back to the apartment, stopping for a wine and mezcal (or two), and later dressed up for dinner at Raíz — which means roots. The six-course prix fixe menu was excellent, and they even had chile en nogada on the menu, out of season but always a treat.

The next morning’s photo sums up my quiet routine: guitar, coffee, computer, iPad, and water — my little corner where I start the day, practice a few chords, and write this blog.

On Saturday, we spent the afternoon at the Hipódromo de las Américas, enjoying good food, a little betting, and a lively Catrina and dance show from Aguascalientes between races. A great mix of culture and fun — and we almost broke even!

Sunday morning brought another guajolote, only this time a sweet version — the tamal was made with strawberry masa (yep, that’s a thing) tucked into the same crusty roll. Unexpectedly good, and a perfect sweet end to the week or the beginning of one.

On Monday, we made our way to the Condesa neighborhood. On the way, we had to recharge our phone plans — even though we had supposedly bought 30-day plans, they only lasted 15. Turns out we were probably scammed at the airport. Lesson learned: if you buy SIM cards at the Mexico City airport, make sure to get them directly from Telcel, not OXXO. Looks like ours were repackaged after someone had already used them. The package looked sealed, but the “$5 discount” should’ve been the red flag.

After about an hour at the Telcel shop, we finally got everything sorted out. We stopped for churros at Churrería El Moro in Polanco — excellent, as always —Kerry thought they were a little stale, like an hour stale. We then called an Uber and headed to Condesa. We spent the afternoon wandering through its tree-lined streets, popping into small shops, and just soaking in the relaxed atmosphere.

We wrapped up the day with an early dinner at Caracol de Mar, which was fantastic, then headed back home.

We took the subway toward Chapultepec, getting off at Auditorio Station. Inside the station, there’s a long rock and roll mural that immediately grabbed our attention. Kerry and I stopped to take it all in — I took two pictures, one with Kerry in front of it and another panoramic shot that captures the full wall..

The mural, known as “El Muro del Rock and Roll,” was inaugurated in 2013  by artist Arturo Márquez as a colorful tribute to both Mexican and international rock legends. It features figures like The Beatles, and Bono — artists who helped shape the genre. Fittingly, the station sits directly beneath the Auditorio Nacional, one of Mexico City’s most famous music venues, making the mural a perfect celebration of the country’s love of rock.

From the Auditorio metro station, where we checked out that great rock and roll mural, we walked the rest of the way along Avenida Reforma and into Chapultepec Park. Reforma is one of the city’s main arteries — wide, full of trees, fountains, and monuments — and it eventually opens up into the park, which is basically Mexico City’s version of Central Park, only bigger and older.

We followed the shady paths through the park, passing snack vendors and families enjoying the afternoon, and made the climb up to Chapultepec Castle. It sits on top of a hill that was once sacred to the Aztecs, so the views of the city are incredible. The castle itself has gone through a lot of roles over the centuries — it was a military academy, then home to Emperor Maximilian and Empress Carlota during their brief reign, and later the presidential residence before becoming a museum.

It’s also the site of one of Mexico’s most famous battles — the Battle of Chapultepec in 1847, when a group of young cadets, known as the Niños Héroes, fought against U.S. forces. The story goes that one of them, Juan Escutia, wrapped himself in the Mexican flag and jumped from the ramparts rather than let it be captured. There’s a large monument to them at the base of the hill, and it’s a pretty moving reminder of how much history sits right under your feet here.

Inside, the castle is filled with beautiful rooms, murals, and terraces overlooking the city. Many pictures follow. Enjoy 

If you made it all the way down here, you deserve, as much as I did, some Dorilocos or crazy Doritos. You might think that you know about them, but they are very special in Chapultepec, there are bout a million vendors selling them. I needed some right when I got out of the castle. Well maybe I didn’t need them. They are Doritos with the bag sliced sideways and in the Doritos, I found Valentina sauce, lime juice, Jicama slices, carrot slices, (Chef Joel, are you listening?) coated peanuts, and last but not least gummy bears! It was delicious, don’t knock it until you try it. I guess I was a little worried before I tried it, but I will be having more before I leave. I also like that they go behind the little stand to make them. I guess each has their own secret sauce. I am betting it was Valentina and lime.

Here is a closer look.