New Members, A Journey to Mictlán and a Michelin Taco Miss oh, and an awesome museum

Welcome to Untethered. We have some new members and I’m glad to have you following along as Kerry and I share some of the experiences we’re having while spending time away from Milwaukee and off other social media. For those who are new here, Kerry retired in July, and we decided to start this next chapter by living part of our retired life outside the U.S. in different parts of the world.

Of course, we’ll do our share of sightseeing along the way, but the main idea is to live as normal a life as possible while abroad, staying within our retirement budget and settling into each place at a slower pace. We’re calling it slow travel. It’s a chance to really experience the cultures, foods, neighborhoods, and people wherever we go—living, not just visiting.

Mexico City is our first test of that idea. We know the city from when I worked here years ago (you can scroll back in the blog and find those posts), and this time we’ve rented an Airbnb for a month. We’re staying in a residential neighborhood, Granada, cooking most meals at home—except for the occasional irresistible street tacos—and so far it’s working out well. We’re keeping up with things back in Milwaukee while settling into life here, one day at a time.

This week we went to a show — or maybe more of an immersive tour — called Journey to Mictlán. It walks you through the nine stages a soul must pass through before reaching eternal rest, according to Aztec tradition. It’s all part of the Day of the Dead celebration, complete with alebrijes, Catrinas, and the marigold-covered path that’s said to guide spirits back to the world of the living.

The exhibit was done across nine different rooms, each with massive screens showing scenes of the journey through the underworld. It was well put together, and I did enjoy it — just maybe not quite as much as I expected. Let’s just say it might have been a little over-produced. Still fascinating, though. Maybe with a few gummies it would’ve hit just right

We also came across this beautiful ofrenda, or altar, part of the Day of the Dead traditions here. It was filled with candles, marigolds, photos, and favorite foods of loved ones who’ve passed — all meant to welcome their spirits back for a brief visit. No matter how many times we’ve seen one, the colors and meaning behind it are always interesting .

Yesterday we ventured out to try a Michelin-starred taco stand — El Califa de León — which translates to “The Caliph of Lion” whatever that means. We took the subway, our go-to for getting around during the day, to a part of town we hadn’t visited before. The setup was: open grill, fresh tortillas being rolled out right in front of you, and a short menu centered around thin cuts of grilled beef and pork served simply on tortillas.

There’s a little shop next door that rents out tables for tips — I tipped the guy two bucks — and that’s where we ended up eating. We shared the space with a friendly family of five from D.C. who, as it turns out, are in the middle of moving to Mérida. Always fun to bump into people chasing a different chapter in life. Well, I guess it is the same chapter, the parents are retired and living in different parts of the world for three months at a time. The usual amount of time allowed for a tourist visa. 

As for the tacos? Good, but probably our least favorite so far. I found myself missing the street tacos — the kind with chopped-up meat, grease on the counter, and a salsa. Those are more authentic to me.

After lunch, we headed to the Museo del Chopo for an exhibit called ¡Que Viva el Rocanrol! — a celebration of Mexican rock music, featuring El Tri, one of Mexico’s most iconic rock bands. Formed in the late ’60s, they’re known for mixing blues and rock with lyrics about social issues, rebellion, and everyday Mexican life. The exhibit was packed with memorabilia, posters, instruments, and videos from their long career.

We also saw works by Rosa Elena Curruchich and Angélica Serech, two Guatemalan artists who combine traditional Mayan art with modern themes — colorful, powerful, and deeply rooted in identity.

And finally, Era un Árbol y se Convirtió en un Bosque (“It Was a Tree and Became a Forest”), an exhibit exploring the relationship between humans and nature through sculpture and film. It also described the history of the building. I watched the short film that went with it and really enjoyed it —  surprisingly funny. This museum, while not on the usual museum trail is one that should to be missed.  

This passage really explains what the museum is all about.

All in all, a week of culture, tacos, and a few unexpected turns — just the way we like it.

Art, Rain, Fútbol & Cable Cars — An Awesome Mexico City Weekend

Saturday — Bazar Sábado

We spent Saturday exploring Bazar Sábado in San Ángel, one of Mexico City’s most colorful weekend traditions. It’s part art fair, part craft market, and part open-air party—ideal for art lovers, browsers, and people watchers.

We started the day with brunch at Saks, a beautiful old-world restaurant that sits right outside the bazaar. The restaurant was buzzing and beautiful, a welcome brunch before diving into the day.

After brunch, we wandered through the plaza, admiring the vibrant art—paintings, sculptures, textiles, and pottery spilling out of every tent. Inside, dozens of stalls were packed with artisan creations: hand-tooled leather, embroidered linens, jewelry, ceramics, and things that seem too delicate to pack in a suitcase but too beautiful to leave behind.

Midday, we slipped into OXA, a mezcal bar tucked into the main building. We found an upstairs room overlooking a store and walkway where families were shopping below. The mezcal was smooth, the setting relaxed—the kind of place you could stay all afternoon. 

A few hours later, we did what every visitor to Bazar Sábado eventually does: gave in. We bought some artwork that we’ll install once we’re back home.

It is wrapped, but you get the idea. Punched leather artwork blending map and street perspectives.

Sunday — The Match

Sunday morning started slow. I walked around looking for a Guajalote. A guajolote (in Mexico City slang) isn’t the bird — it’s a tamale tucked inside a crusty bread roll, usually a bolillo. It’s carb-on-carb comfort food at its finest — warm, soft tamale wrapped in a crunchy roll, often topped with salsa or crema. You’ll find vendors selling them from carts early in the morning, especially near metro stations.I found some and Kerry and I dined before we went for a walk in the rain (a bit of foreshadowing, as it turned out) and picked up a Pumas jersey for that night’s game. 

That evening, I met up with my friend Fernando, whom I first met when I worked here seven years ago. His father, sister, her boyfriend, and the boyfriend’s twin joined us for the match. We met around 4 p.m. for the 7 p.m. kickoff and called an Uber to the Estadio Olímpico Universitario.

On the drive, I could see streaks of rain slanting down in the distance—those silvery “curtains” you can see from miles away. Fernando pointed and said, “I think that’s where we’re going.” He was right.

By the time we arrived, it was pouring. We found refuge under a bridge with a crowd of other fans, and right next to us was a Tacos de Canasta vendor. For the uninitiated, these are “basket tacos”—soft tortillas filled with potatoes, beans, or chicharrón, layered in a basket, then doused with hot oil to keep them warm and delicious. Five tacos for about $2.50 USD. Perfect rain delay food.

Fortunately, I’d bought a poncho for five bucks right after getting out of the Uber—a wise investment.

Once the rain lightened, we regrouped and made our way to the stadium. Everyone was soaked. The field crew swept gallons of water into drains before the match resumed. Despite the soggy pitch, the energy was electric.

Fernando and his Dad and Sister

I was the lone Pumas fan in our group, surrounded by Chivas supporters (from Guadalajara). The match ended in heartbreak—Pumas missed a last-second penalty that would have tied the game. The crowd groaned, and that was that.

We left drenched but smiling and found a Michelin-recommended taco bar nearby. The tacos lived up to the reputation—crispy, flavorful, and worth every step through the puddles. Afterward, I called an Uber and headed home.

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Monday — Cable Cars & Chapultepec

On Monday, Kerry and I took the subway and then hopped on one of the city’s cable cars—yes, part of the actual public transit system. The ride cost about 30 cents each way and glided over the same road we used to take to our old apartment in Cuajimalpa, up in the hills.

The route ended near Chapultepec Park, our old favorite. We didn’t realize it’s closed on Mondays—a day of rest for both the park and its staff—but we still enjoyed walking the perimeter and taking in the greenery.

Look at the writing on the building, not the big banner.  teee heeee...

Fun fact: Chapultepec Park is roughly twice the size of New York’s Central Park. Central Park covers about 843 acres; Chapultepec spans around 1,695 acres. It’s one of the largest city parks in the world—a forest in the middle of the city.

With the park quiet and the skies clear again, we walked home, made chicken and salad for dinner, and called it a night. A perfect, unhurried end to a full weekend of art, rain, fútbol, and street tacos.

Slow Travel

SSSSSLLLLLLOOOOOOWWWWWW TTTTRRRRRAAAAAVVVVVVVVEEEEEEEELLLLLLLL

On Thursday, we took a long walk through Polanco, an expat hotspot full of restaurants, parks, and some very high-end shops. Our wandering led us to Palacio Hierro, a luxury department store with an incredible food hall on the top floor. We picked up a baguette and some prosciutto for sandwiches back at the apartment before getting ready for the evening.

Later, we met up with our friend Camilo for drinks at Tlecan, ranked #3 bar in North America and #20 in the world. Street tacos also made an appearance—well, mostly drinks, with a couple of tacos sneaking in somewhere along the way. It was a fun night… maybe a bit too fun.

Yesterday was all about recovery. We spent the day cleaning the apartment and tackling the laundry pile. We did manage to get out for some grocery shopping at City Market, and naturally, couldn’t resist grabbing a few more street tacos. Slow, simple, and satisfying. Honestly, I don’t know why I don’t eat these all the time—they’re incredible and cheap: 8 bucks for four stuffed tacos, a Diet Coke, and some peanuts. Well… maybe that’s why. Not exactly health food.

Here are some pictures of the apartment:

I am also taking some time to start planning the South East Asia Trip.