Two Stops: O’Gorman’s House and the UNAM Library

We visited the O’Higgins–Rivera workshop, where the Day of the Dead ofrendas were set up throughout the house—each dedicated to the three artists who lived and worked there. The place still looks like a working space, and seeing how Pablo O’Higgins and Diego Rivera shared that environment adds to the history of the building. 

The place still looks like a working space, and seeing how Pablo O’Higgins and Diego Rivera shared that environment added to the history of the building. 

O’Higgins’ home and studio were built in a stripped-down, utilitarian style that reflected both his politics and his practical personality. He used just simple forms, exposed materials, and a layout meant for work, collaboration, and daily life. It followed the same spirit as the early functionalist movement in Mexico: architecture as a tool, not a luxury. The house was meant to serve artists and activists who came through its doors, not to impress anyone from the street.

After that, we headed to the UNAM campus, stopped to see Rivera’s mural on the Central Library, and happened to catch a graduation ceremony spilling out across the walkways. 

Rivera painted an important mural right next door in the Rectoria building, where he depicted Mexico’s struggle for freedom and culture. 

The Central Library at UNAM is covered in huge mosaic murals by Juan O’Gorman, done very much in the spirit of Diego Rivera. Each side of the building tells a different chapter of Mexican history — pre-Hispanic life, the colonial period, modern Mexico, and the story of the university itself. Rivera didn’t create these mosaics, but his influence is all over them: the focus on Indigenous culture, a look at colonization, and the celebration of workers, science, and education. 

Together, the murals on the library and Rectoria form one of the strongest public-art statements in the country.

We made our way from the library to MUAC through the theatre district. The museum itself was excellent. The standout was a “womb” installation built from compacted earth it was quiet, dim, and very  immersive, it was like stepping into a geological exhibit.

 

Tamyao Art Museum and the Contemporary Art Museum

I will do a few posts to catch up. Kerry and I spent time in Chapultepec Park visiting the Tamayo Museum and the Contemporary Art Museum. The Tamayo focuses on modern and contemporary works, many from international artists, housed in a simple but striking concrete building surrounded by trees. 

The Contemporary Art Museum, right next door, features major Mexican artists like Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, and Rufino Tamayo himself, along with rotating exhibits that tie Mexico’s past to its modern identity. Both museums are manageable in size and thoughtfully curated — a quiet, reflective contrast to the bustle of the park outside.

Art, History, Protests, and Packers

Friday started off with a full day of culture, food, and friends. We met our former colleague and good friend Diana for brunch at one of our favorite restaurants, El Cardenal. 

We arrived a little early and stumbled upon a small art museum nearby called the Museo del Estanquillo. The museum was founded by the writer and journalist Carlos Monsiváis, who donated his massive personal collection of art, photography, and memorabilia to the city. The exhibit we saw was stunning, our photos don’t quite do it justice. 

After our surprise museum visit, we headed to El Cardenal for brunch. It’s one of Mexico City’s most respected restaurant chains, known for its traditional Mexican dishes served in a refined, old-world setting. They make everything from scratch, fresh-baked bread, hand-whipped hot chocolate, and chilaquiles.

After brunch we walked to the Zócalo, Mexico City’s grand central square, to visit the Templo Mayor Museum and the Metropolitan Cathedral. Both are impressive in their own ways. The ruins of Templo Mayor are what remain of the great Aztec temple complex that once stood at the heart of Tenochtitlán. The cathedral was literally built on top of it by the Spanish to erase the Aztec past and assert colonial rule. Some things don't change, erasing history. The symbolism is hard to miss.

After saying goodbye to Diana, we wandered toward Tacuba Street but before that, while in the square,  Kerry got her shoes shined. 

Avenida 5th de Mayo

Oh yes, Did I mention the huge book fair that was hopping in the Zocalo? 

We continued to Plaza Manuel Tolsá to see an exhibit at the National Museum of Art called Saturno. The show explored the influence of myth and astrology, a blend of science, spirituality, and imagination. We were surprised by the beauty of the National Museum, until Fernando explain that it was the NATIONAL Museum after all.  

M.C. Escheresque staircase 

Outside, we came across the Ferias de Barrios, a sprawling street fair featuring food and crafts from neighborhoods across the city. We walked across the Alemeda and found a heavy metal rock band playing. I am kind of the opposite of the lead singer. I play the guitar. : ) 

Later that night, our friend Fernando joined us for drinks at a great little bar in the Alameda, followed by what may have been the best tacos of the trip at El Vilsito in his neighborhood, a mechanic shop by day and taco stand by night. It think this is the second time you are hearing about this Taco place.  We wrapped up with a strawberry and cream dessert from a local dulcería. 

Saturday was all about the Alebrije Parade, one of our favorite events. The parade features huge, hand-crafted, brightly colored creatures — part animal, part fantasy — marching down Avenida Reforma. 

We thought it was supposed to center around the Ángel de la Independencia, the iconic golden-winged monument that celebrates Mexico’s independence from Spain. But when we arrived, the street was full of protesters, a national demonstration that was intense and, honestly, a little unsettling. Meanwhile, back in the States, there was the “No Kings” protest — so both countries had something to shout about that day. 

What made it stranger was that, right beside the protest, there was a beautiful marigold market, full of flowers and smiles. Two completely opposite worlds sharing the same space.

We went a little further down the road and found our spot in the middle of the boulevard watching what we had come for, the Alebrije Parade. 

And a Hairless Dog!! Always seems to be a Hairless dog somewhere we travel!

We ended the day with dinner and a walk through the Zona Rosa, A long, fascinating, and slightly weird day — just how we like it.

Sunday? That was easy. We found a good spot for brunch, went home and watched football all afternoon. Some habits just don’t die — even in Mexico. Go Packers!